Panzer
03-19-2005, 06:53 PM
How to set your peep height for target archery....
By Mike (Javi...) Cooper
The most accurate use of a peep and front sight combination will occur when the aperture is matched to the diameter of the front sight housing. Aligning a series of points will provide more precise control of both elevation and windage; the more points the more control. To properly use this combination one must simply center the housing in the peep and while bending at the waist (so as to disturb the alignment of the peep to the eye as little as possible) align the elevation point (pin) with the target. You may have heard some of the more experienced competitive shooters say that you should set your peep at the average distance that you will shoot. For example in NFAA field archery, 42 yards is the approximate average of all shots taken, so that is the distance you should set your peep height. But there is more to it than that. How do you sight in at that distance? Simple you don’t. It takes a little effort but it can pay off… Here is what I do... I shoot with a scope and sight bar so it is a little easier than a multi-pin sight or even a single pin slider but all can be set properly.
Set your peep height with proper form and at shoulder height that way you are in the ultimate upright position. To properly set the height one should always draw the bow using proper form and reach your reference points with your eyes closed, when you open your eyes you should see clearly through the peep. At this point it is best to not have the front sight mounted as it will cause you to seek alignment. Once you have the peep adjusted so that you do not have to seek the aperture with your eye, or reposition your head even the slightest you are ready to begin tuning the setup.
I rough set my elevation to 20 yards, (remember I’m using a single point sliding sight bar) then I adjust my windage by placing a ˝” wide strip of tape (up and down) on the target; I shoot and adjust until all my shots hit the tape.
Now I place a 1.0” strip of tape horizontally and vertically on the target, and step back to the 30 yard stake and rough adjust my elevation bar; then back to 42 yards, where I again adjust my sight so that I’m hitting both the vertical and horizontal tapes. Here comes the fine tuning of the peep. With the same good form you have been using, draw your bow at shoulder level with your eyes closed and find your reference points, open your eyes and you should still see through the peep without any adjustment. Now bend at the waist to align the housing and sight pin on the tape, if you cannot see clearly through the peep you need to adjust it. And yes this will move the elevation of your POI. Once you have the peep realigned; fine tune the elevation of the sight and follow the procedure again until aiming requires no adjustment of either the peep or the sight…
For multi-pin sights you can follow the same procedures but you will need to center the 40 yard pin in the sight housing.
Of course if your venue has a different average target yardage, then you should substitute that for the 42 yards I use.
One last thought... Feel free to use a wider tape if necessary, you need to be able to hit the tape consistently for this to work correctly.
By Mike (Javi...) Cooper
The most accurate use of a peep and front sight combination will occur when the aperture is matched to the diameter of the front sight housing. Aligning a series of points will provide more precise control of both elevation and windage; the more points the more control. To properly use this combination one must simply center the housing in the peep and while bending at the waist (so as to disturb the alignment of the peep to the eye as little as possible) align the elevation point (pin) with the target. You may have heard some of the more experienced competitive shooters say that you should set your peep at the average distance that you will shoot. For example in NFAA field archery, 42 yards is the approximate average of all shots taken, so that is the distance you should set your peep height. But there is more to it than that. How do you sight in at that distance? Simple you don’t. It takes a little effort but it can pay off… Here is what I do... I shoot with a scope and sight bar so it is a little easier than a multi-pin sight or even a single pin slider but all can be set properly.
Set your peep height with proper form and at shoulder height that way you are in the ultimate upright position. To properly set the height one should always draw the bow using proper form and reach your reference points with your eyes closed, when you open your eyes you should see clearly through the peep. At this point it is best to not have the front sight mounted as it will cause you to seek alignment. Once you have the peep adjusted so that you do not have to seek the aperture with your eye, or reposition your head even the slightest you are ready to begin tuning the setup.
I rough set my elevation to 20 yards, (remember I’m using a single point sliding sight bar) then I adjust my windage by placing a ˝” wide strip of tape (up and down) on the target; I shoot and adjust until all my shots hit the tape.
Now I place a 1.0” strip of tape horizontally and vertically on the target, and step back to the 30 yard stake and rough adjust my elevation bar; then back to 42 yards, where I again adjust my sight so that I’m hitting both the vertical and horizontal tapes. Here comes the fine tuning of the peep. With the same good form you have been using, draw your bow at shoulder level with your eyes closed and find your reference points, open your eyes and you should still see through the peep without any adjustment. Now bend at the waist to align the housing and sight pin on the tape, if you cannot see clearly through the peep you need to adjust it. And yes this will move the elevation of your POI. Once you have the peep realigned; fine tune the elevation of the sight and follow the procedure again until aiming requires no adjustment of either the peep or the sight…
For multi-pin sights you can follow the same procedures but you will need to center the 40 yard pin in the sight housing.
Of course if your venue has a different average target yardage, then you should substitute that for the 42 yards I use.
One last thought... Feel free to use a wider tape if necessary, you need to be able to hit the tape consistently for this to work correctly.