forgiving bow

[dougbug1]

I was talking the other day with another archer and we were just curious about any tips for making your bow more forgiving. Both real basic tips and any in depth tricks or secrets. What do you say Archerysite.net experts?

[Rat]

Cam timing, not really more forgiving but more repeatable and accurate. Same with 3rd axis in the sights.

For true forgivness I would say Creep Tuning and Tiller Tuning are the best bets.

Of course, having a system that is built for forgiveness goes a loooooong way also. :)

[Gareth]

Of course, having a system that is built for forgiveness goes a loooooong way also. :)


Good fundamental form is the best system !

Anyone have any I ould borrow :D

[SageCreek]

Having a grip on your bow that you can place your hand on consistenly will help alot.

Tuning your arrow to have a slight high left tear seems to be more forgiving for most people of mistakes. It forces the arrow to self correct the same direction everytime.

[archerdad]

properly spined arrows are a tremendous help.

[Oldaro]

SC, I recall one attempt to ensure an exact hand placement on the grip. Inside the palm line (the crease where your thumb folds toward your palm) of the bow hand), you can lay *a piece of thin string, slightly dabbed in some cheap paper-gluing paste. I don't know the commercial name, but it's the kind of a milky-white, funny smelling and water-soluble glue that takes several minutes to harden, and generally isn't very strong.

Now take the bow as you usually do, draw, and find the most comfortable gripping position. Press the string onto bow, hard, and hold on a bit in that position. Slowly relax the bow and sort of peel your palm off the grip so that the string piece remains on the bow handle - exactly where your palmcrease was.

Depending on the kind of goo you applied to the piece of string, wait more or less for it to harden. It is preferable to use the kind of paste that softens in water. When you're sure that the string won't move, place a piece of surgical tape first, then duck tape it over the handle by following the string line while pressing the tape over the handle. Now you have saved your handmark position, and all you do from then on, is try and grab the bow so that the string-made ridge slots into your palm line.

If you're not satisfied with it, you can always remove the tape and unglue the string piece with no damage to the bowgrip. Or you can copy that hand-orienting mark in some other manner, to make it permanent.

Then there's this ugly two-component mass that you can squeeze in your hand to start it up. In several minutes it gets warm, and then hardens like rock. This makes an excellent material for handle forming. You have to remove the original wooden grip, study the metal or the riser underneath, and paint it with some separator, as you'd do with, say, the polyester boat cast. Or wrap it in couple turns of clinging foil. Make test grip from Plasteline (commercial name here; what kids use in school to model things...), and note important lines that your palm leaves in the material. Try and replicate your best-liked version in the permanently hardening material. Be sure to do it right in the first attempt, the chemical hardening process is one-time only!

The final product should be removable, throwawayable, and repeatable. Once hardened, the handle can be taken off, polished to a degree, or maybe painted or lacquered to go well with the rest of the bow. My friend made this on his bow, because he likes to hold it palm horizontal, fingers open, and the bow hanging deep between his thumb and pointer. It works for him, but he needed to adapt the grip to suit *his strange style. Later on, he's had the whole riser re-painted, including the new grip, and it looks good... almost normal...
:)