Panzer
03-02-2005, 07:54 AM
A Sunday morning musing by Javi….
I address this to compound archers.
When I started shooting (1959) it was re-curves or long bows. As I made the transition to compounds and then releases a few years ago, I never once thought of the most important component of the shot. I knew my draw length and was set in my ways, 28.5” was my DRAW, never once did I consider that I used a 48” Bear Kodiak for my template.
I went to school as it were with the first short bow I bought; a Hoyt RazorTec. This was a great bow, short light, and smooth; the problem was that to shoot it at 28.5” and maintain my reference points (I’d used the same points almost since I started shooting, following Fred Bear) I had to contort my body into very uncomfortable positions. My alternative was to lengthen the draw or alter my form and reference points. I tried them all, morphing weekly and sometimes by the minute with the same results. I could find something that would deliver shaft breaking accuracy at one distance, but change that distance and the accuracy went away; until I found another “FORM”. I became so screwed up I was ready to explode. At this point I made a decision to learn what created my problem. Below is a summation of that process.
Draw length is a terribly misunderstood term; it is a combination of so many things.
If you shoot back tension properly then you have one anchor point, the position of your scapula... Many, who have found true “Back Tension”, have determined that it cannot vary more than 1/8” or the release will require conscious manipulation. Once you have found your personal “ANCHOR POINT” then you must begin the process of finding at least one repeatable reference point; although this is a case of more is better.
Here we begin the small scratch, which can become an open festering wound before the process is over. Why? Because the distance we shoot, the equipment we use, and our form will play nearly equal parts in determining which reference points we choose. Stature now must also come into play. Why? Along with several lesser factors it will determine the proper length of bow that an individual should choose.
As an example; suppose that you wish to touch the string to your nose, and have it cross the corner of your mouth and place the knuckle of your index finger under your ear; and while utilizing these reference points be able to consistently hit your anchor point. To achieve this with what is considered proper form, will be a product of many things. Facial features, stature, string angle of the bow, and the lengths of the release and rope/loop.
The primary reference point you choose is a product of the length of your arm, stance, the angle of the string and the release used, but most importantly repeatability. There are many shooters who through mimicry or design have chosen a particular reference point, for some it is a thumb on the back of the neck or knuckle of the index finger under the ear. Longer range shooters, especially those who use lower draw weights may reference under the jaw. The bottom line is you must match the equipment and your body when choosing your reference points. If you are approaching six feet tall and choose to shoot a 33” axle to axle you probably won’t be able to touch your nose to the string.
How does this apply to draw length?
Well it all ties together, taking into consideration all of the above and coupled with conventional wisdom that too much facial contact between the string, arrow or fletching will result in inconsistencies. We are left with a narrow range of draw length to find the exact point where we hold on the target without effort, and can hit our reference points which in turn allow us to reach the anchor point. This range may be plus or minus a ¼” for most people. But this too is a product of additional variables.
What are they? Bow mass and draw weight are the major factors. These must be balanced to the draw length or we can find ourselves using too much arm and shoulder muscle and/or locking the elbow, both of which are usually thought to be detrimental to accuracy.
It would be nice if an individual’s draw length was as simple and defined as a bows draw length. But it isn’t; there are many variables to consider and one must have a considerable amount of flexibility when searching for that ideal length where everything comes together and we are in the zone…
It all ties together, if you change any factor that makes up the whole, including the string angle of the bow, the length of your release, grip angle, alter the draw weight, or even tie on a new loop you may need to change the draw length. Because of this there can not be a set draw length determined by a formula.
If you are looking for a beginning, then the reference formula of wingspan minus 15” divided by 2 will give you a starting point (ws-15/2=DL). In my case 72”-15/2 = 28.5
For curiosities sake, with the combination of equipment I am currently shooting and the reference points I have chosen, 28 15/16” is my DL. At this point my form is reasonably solid and the release fires without conscious manipulation while I continue to contract my rhomboids, lavatory scapula, and trapezius muscles. The bow holds well on the target and if I do my part the arrow will hit the mark. In reading this you may discover that I chose not to address such issues as spring tension on the release trigger, and the elements of proper form. I feel those are elements of the total package but better left to in person discussions, with a good coach….
I was able to muddle through “learning” the issues of draw length and its relationship to equipment choices, by asking questions and receiving input from many of the top archers in the world, and for that I thank each and every one of them.
For those of you unable to utilize a coach, there are several good books available some more in depth than others are, but one in particular I recommend is Core Archery by Larry Wise… in my opinion anyone struggling with DL or back tension will benefit from reading this book. I just wish it had been available during my ordeal and struggle with DL. It would have shortened the learning curve tremendously.
REF: A bows draw length is measured from the pivot point of the grip to the bottom of the string groove on the arrow nock when the bow is at full draw. This is the bow’s true draw length, however most manufacturers use AMO draw to determine the draw length of their bows, this is true draw plus 1 ¾”. (See attached photo)
I address this to compound archers.
When I started shooting (1959) it was re-curves or long bows. As I made the transition to compounds and then releases a few years ago, I never once thought of the most important component of the shot. I knew my draw length and was set in my ways, 28.5” was my DRAW, never once did I consider that I used a 48” Bear Kodiak for my template.
I went to school as it were with the first short bow I bought; a Hoyt RazorTec. This was a great bow, short light, and smooth; the problem was that to shoot it at 28.5” and maintain my reference points (I’d used the same points almost since I started shooting, following Fred Bear) I had to contort my body into very uncomfortable positions. My alternative was to lengthen the draw or alter my form and reference points. I tried them all, morphing weekly and sometimes by the minute with the same results. I could find something that would deliver shaft breaking accuracy at one distance, but change that distance and the accuracy went away; until I found another “FORM”. I became so screwed up I was ready to explode. At this point I made a decision to learn what created my problem. Below is a summation of that process.
Draw length is a terribly misunderstood term; it is a combination of so many things.
If you shoot back tension properly then you have one anchor point, the position of your scapula... Many, who have found true “Back Tension”, have determined that it cannot vary more than 1/8” or the release will require conscious manipulation. Once you have found your personal “ANCHOR POINT” then you must begin the process of finding at least one repeatable reference point; although this is a case of more is better.
Here we begin the small scratch, which can become an open festering wound before the process is over. Why? Because the distance we shoot, the equipment we use, and our form will play nearly equal parts in determining which reference points we choose. Stature now must also come into play. Why? Along with several lesser factors it will determine the proper length of bow that an individual should choose.
As an example; suppose that you wish to touch the string to your nose, and have it cross the corner of your mouth and place the knuckle of your index finger under your ear; and while utilizing these reference points be able to consistently hit your anchor point. To achieve this with what is considered proper form, will be a product of many things. Facial features, stature, string angle of the bow, and the lengths of the release and rope/loop.
The primary reference point you choose is a product of the length of your arm, stance, the angle of the string and the release used, but most importantly repeatability. There are many shooters who through mimicry or design have chosen a particular reference point, for some it is a thumb on the back of the neck or knuckle of the index finger under the ear. Longer range shooters, especially those who use lower draw weights may reference under the jaw. The bottom line is you must match the equipment and your body when choosing your reference points. If you are approaching six feet tall and choose to shoot a 33” axle to axle you probably won’t be able to touch your nose to the string.
How does this apply to draw length?
Well it all ties together, taking into consideration all of the above and coupled with conventional wisdom that too much facial contact between the string, arrow or fletching will result in inconsistencies. We are left with a narrow range of draw length to find the exact point where we hold on the target without effort, and can hit our reference points which in turn allow us to reach the anchor point. This range may be plus or minus a ¼” for most people. But this too is a product of additional variables.
What are they? Bow mass and draw weight are the major factors. These must be balanced to the draw length or we can find ourselves using too much arm and shoulder muscle and/or locking the elbow, both of which are usually thought to be detrimental to accuracy.
It would be nice if an individual’s draw length was as simple and defined as a bows draw length. But it isn’t; there are many variables to consider and one must have a considerable amount of flexibility when searching for that ideal length where everything comes together and we are in the zone…
It all ties together, if you change any factor that makes up the whole, including the string angle of the bow, the length of your release, grip angle, alter the draw weight, or even tie on a new loop you may need to change the draw length. Because of this there can not be a set draw length determined by a formula.
If you are looking for a beginning, then the reference formula of wingspan minus 15” divided by 2 will give you a starting point (ws-15/2=DL). In my case 72”-15/2 = 28.5
For curiosities sake, with the combination of equipment I am currently shooting and the reference points I have chosen, 28 15/16” is my DL. At this point my form is reasonably solid and the release fires without conscious manipulation while I continue to contract my rhomboids, lavatory scapula, and trapezius muscles. The bow holds well on the target and if I do my part the arrow will hit the mark. In reading this you may discover that I chose not to address such issues as spring tension on the release trigger, and the elements of proper form. I feel those are elements of the total package but better left to in person discussions, with a good coach….
I was able to muddle through “learning” the issues of draw length and its relationship to equipment choices, by asking questions and receiving input from many of the top archers in the world, and for that I thank each and every one of them.
For those of you unable to utilize a coach, there are several good books available some more in depth than others are, but one in particular I recommend is Core Archery by Larry Wise… in my opinion anyone struggling with DL or back tension will benefit from reading this book. I just wish it had been available during my ordeal and struggle with DL. It would have shortened the learning curve tremendously.
REF: A bows draw length is measured from the pivot point of the grip to the bottom of the string groove on the arrow nock when the bow is at full draw. This is the bow’s true draw length, however most manufacturers use AMO draw to determine the draw length of their bows, this is true draw plus 1 ¾”. (See attached photo)